Here's various bits and pieces of technical specifications, etc. that I've collected about my 1985 (1st generation) 4Runner:

Dimensions:

Steering:

Engine:

Notes:

• Off-Road.com has an excellent page on 4-cylinder Toyota engines
• This is a neat site with a Java-based torque curve synthesizer:
  • Here's the computed Torque Curve for a 22-RE engine

Transmission/Transfer Case(s):

The Aisin Seiki W56 is a five-speed, fully-synchronized manual transmission is found in Toyota 4x4's with the 22R-E engine:

The Aisin Seiki RF1A two-speed transfer case is found in Toyota 4x4's:

With a Marlin Ultimate Crawler (dual transfer case), 5.29:1 R&P gears, overall crawl ratios work out to:

Notes:

• The Marlin Crawler web page has lots of gearing information.
• Here's a nifty gear ratio calculator.
• To put this in perspective, take a typical engine idle speed of 800 RPM and using 33" tires with the above gearing, your speed is about 29 feet/minute, or less than 1/3 MPH!
• FYI: My 22RE engine will stall in lo-lo-2nd gear at idle (121:1) but will not stall in lo-lo-1st, even up a steep hill w/ brakes applied.

Differentials:

Here is a table of ring and pinion sizes for various gear ratios in the Toyota 8" differential:

Other information:

• The ORC guide to Toyota axles
• On-line gear ratio calculator
• Information on the TrueTrac differential
• WJ Markerink's description of traction-aiding differentials
• The Torsen Differential white paper

Fluids:

More Information:

• Lubrication Theory and Practice
• The Engine Oil Bible is another excellent source of lubrication information
• The American Petroleum Institute (API) is the definitive source of oil information.

Shell:

The 1st generation 4Runners feature a fiberglass shell over the rear seat and cargo area. This shell may be removed and installed with the following procedure:

Removal:

• Open the rear window fully
  • Remove any CB antenna or spare tires on your rear bumper
• Remove the screws and plastic trim pieces.
  • The plastic may be brittle
• Disconnect the wire connector and washer hose (for the rear washer/wiper)
• Remove bolt "A" (see diagram below)
• Remove the remaining bolts
• Take the cover off
  • Avoid flexing the shell
  • Do not re-install bolt "A" after removal (I kept it in a compartment of my tool box)

Installation:

• Place the shell on the vehicle
  • I installed all the bolts in the bed rail to line everything up
• Tighten bolts "B" (see diagram below)
• Tighten bolts "C"
• Tighten bolts "D"
  • The idea is to compress the seal along hte bed rails
• Loosen bolts "C"
• Tighten bolts "E"
  • Now, you are compressing the seals to the cab roof
• Tighten all other bolts except "A"
• Tighten bolts "A"
• Uncover the hole and connect the wire and washer hose for the washer/wiper
• Install the trim pieces and install the screws
  • The plastic may be brittle
• Tighten the bolts securely with a torque wrench:
  • 102-149 in.lb. (8.5-12 ft.lb.)

Here are a few tips for removing the shell:

• Use a felt pen to label the bolt holes per the diagram above once you pull off the trim pieces
  • This will make the process easier the next time.
• I installed 4 hooks (like you hang bicycles from) in the rafters in my garage and attached some motorcycle tie-down straps (the cam-lock kind, not the ratcheting kind) to the hooks and used the crossbars from my roof rack to support the shell
  • Slide open the side windows, one crossmember goes fromt window to window
  • The second cross member goes under the shell *behind* the factory roll bar
  • Lift an end of the shell up with your back and slide the crossmember under the gap
  • Repeat one end then the other until you have sufficient clearance to drive out from under the shell
  • This makes it a one-person removal and/or install process
• I put all the trim pieces and screws back on the shell after lifting it off the truck so I know where they are when its time to re-install the shell
  • The trim pieces are very brittle, especially the long sections under the windows.
  • Both mine broke and I repaired them by gluing pieces of plastic across the cracks on the inside of the trim
• Be sure that the tailgate is locked otherwise the "Rear Door" light will be on all the time

Electrical:

Fuses:

Here's the fuse panel from the driver's side fuse panel: