< Project: Caddy Shack >

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Owner information:

• Roger Brown, P.E.
  • Located in: Santa Clara, CA.
  • I used to drive a 1978 VW Rabbit C model; purchased new.
    • It had the 1.5 liter fuel injected 4 cylinder, with over-square pistons.
    • Installed a 4:2:1 tube exhaust header and Monza muffler.
    • ATS 13x6 rims with Phoenix 205 60HR 13 rubber - a very excellent tire!.
    • Spare tire gas tank gave 24 gallon fuel capacity for 700+ mile range.
    • Had front/rear sway bars, lowered front springs and KYB shocks.
  • Here's my other vehicle: Project: 4Crawler.

Vehicle information:

• 1981 VW LX Pickup; A1 model
  • Rabbit front half, pickup rear half (4' x 6' bed)
  • Also known as the "Caddy" in other parts of the world
  • Its a diesel so I don't have to deal with Smog Checks!
• 255,000 miles
  • I'm the 5th owner, it had 155,000 on the clock when I bought it in 1991
  • Finally got the odometer repaired, so I've now gained 5-10% in fuel mileage :-)
    • Actually, I was loosing 5-10% with the odometer skipping, I may have another 5-25k on the clock
• Color: Slate Gray Metallic, paint code: LE6U
  • Actually more of a dark metallic green
• Silver gray interior
  • Although it seems to have a greenish tint
• 14.7 gallon fuel tank
  • Best range has been 525 miles on a 12.2 gallon fill-up

Engine:

• 1.6 liter, 4-cylinder normally-aspirated diesel
  • 76.4mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1588cc
  • 52 HP @ 4800 RPM
  • 71 lb.ft. @ 3000 RPM
    • You can get an idea of the torque/power curves, which were calculated here
  • Rebuilt at 233K by Randy Knoche at Little Village Automotive
  • Pulls great up to the redline (rev-limit in the injector pump)
    • 25 MPH in 1st
    • 40 MPH in 2nd
    • 60 MPH in 3rd (runs out of torque before hitting the limit at 66)
  • Still breaking in, creeping back towards 40MPG
• K&N Filtercharger
• Custom exhaust
  • Stainless steel Borla muffler
  • 2" stainless steel tubing
  • Dual-tube resonator tip
  • Sounds really good when it winds up!
• Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40 diesel motor oil
  • I buy it in gallon jugs at Auto Parts Club, ~$5/gallon
  • Purolator oil filer
  • Usually can run the entire 3000 mile oil change interval w/o topping up the sump
• Re-built 107-AG fuel injector pump at ~180K
  • That new low-sulphur California diesel fuel got me after about 8 months after it was introduced
  • I now run approx. 4oz. Berryman's Diesel Treatment and/or 12oz. Dexron ATF, and 16oz. (used) motor oil per tankful
    • The oil is drained from the engine (after 3000 miles) into a sealed container. I've been adding it for a few years now with no problems. After 3000 miles, the old oil is gone, ready for the new stuff. Just be sure to keep an eye on the fuel filter, it seems to gum up a bit quicker, maybe 15k miles instead of 30k. My previous engine was burning much more oil than this. YMMV but the black oil does a fine job concealing any fuel colorant.

Transmission:

• Rebuilt VW 5 speed manual (020, FF model)
  • Original 1st gear was unreachable while moving
  • Currently running Valvoline 75W90 synthetic gear lube
    • Really helps the shifting on those cold mornings
    • Added a tube of Sta-Lube limited slip additive to help the syncros do their job better
• Stock 3.94 : 1 final drive ratio
• CV joints replaced at 192K
• Custom hand-carved maple gear shift knob, that I made while stationed on a fire lookout tower in the summer of 1978:
  • 

    Table: FF Gear Ratios

    Gear	Ratio
    Reverse	3.17 : 1
    1st	3.45 : 1
    2nd	1.94 : 1
    3rd	1.29 : 1
    4th	0.97 : 1
    5th	0.76 : 1

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    Suspension:

    • Rear:
      • Stock leaf springs
        • w/ 1000# overload leaf
      • KYB Gas-A-Just shocks
    • Front:
      • Heavy-duty coil springs, stock ride height
        • Purchased from JC Whitney for $50
      • Bilstein HD strut inserts up front, replacing my worn KYBs
        • Great shock, firm, but not harsh
        • Had one insert go bad, a phone call to Bilstein (1-800-537-1085) and I had a replacement insert in a couple of days, excellent warranty service!
      • Front 22mm anti-sway bar with ProThane polyurethane bushings through out.
      • Top and bottom stress bars.
        • I plan to replace the single lower stress bar with a full 3 member lower sub-frame from AutoTech..
      • New polyurethane suspension and steering rack bushings.
        • The old rubber bushings were firmly attached to the moving wishbones.
        • The urethane parts move much more freely and are stiffer to boot.
        • The ride is improved, more precise and no sign of harshness.
        • I also tried polyurethane engine mounts, but decided they are NOT a good idea on a diesel :-)
      • New OEM strut bearings.
        • I wanted to use the AutoTech's heavy-duty strut bearings.
          • Unfortunately they no longer make them, had to settle for stock parts... }:-(
          • One thing I did to the stock bearing was to grind down the bushing inside so that it was the same height as the bearing. This let the top washer make light contact with the top of the bearing, reducing the play (and clunking) noticably. I greased the washer so it turns smoothly.
        • Now that I have the 4Runner, I shouldn't be abusing the struts so much in the desert :-)
      • New TRW ball joints.

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    Wheels, Tires & Brakes:

    • VW's "Sporty light alloy wheels" (5Jx13 aluminum).
      • Bought wheels used w/ nearly new tires for $250.
        • Had to add the hub caps (at $6.25 each!).
      • I painted the raised "VW" lettering with silver paint then clear-coated them.
      • A dot of super glue works to keep the caps attached to the wheel.
    • Goodyear Invicta GLR 175-70R13 tires.
      • I wasn't too impressed with these tires, while much better that the crappy Semperit (155-80R13) that they replaced, they still squealed and slid on turns.
      • I had been running 28-32 PSI eventually upping that to 35.
        • Then I read the fine print on the sidewalls and found the maximum pressure rating was 44 PSI, not 35 as I had assumed.
        • Now running them at 44 PSI the handling and ride is so much better than before.
    • Kleber 145-80R13 hydrophilic rubber snow tires (on 4.5J x 13 steel rims) for snow runs.
      • These tires are awesome in the snow, not studded but grip extremely well.
      • Have had them since the early '80's, originally on my '78 Rabbit.
      • I estimate I have around 20K on them and the tread is holding up well.
    • Stock disk brakes with Wagner semi-metallic brake pads in front.
    • Stock rear drum brakes.

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    Electrical:

    • Exide Select 1000 Group 78 battery:
      • 1000 CCA @ 32°F.
      • 770 CCA @ 0°F.
      • May be dropping the Optima 800U Red Top battery from my 4Runner in its place.
    • Stock 55A alternator.
    • Factory A/C (R12).
      • Only trouble with it has been a split high-pressure line, since replaced with barrier hose.
      • Looking into an R134 conversion or removal the next time it dies.
    • Roadmaster stereo AM/FM/cassette.
      • Automatic retractable antenna.
    • Philips ColorClear blacked-out headlights with protective wire grill.
      • Gives a nice black-out effect when off, blends in with the black grill.
      • The internal black metal grill really cuts down on headlight glare.
      • It does seem to cut down on the light output slightly.
        • Then again, I was running Hellas before!
        • The Hellas now live on my 4Runner.
    • Mini halogen fog lights under front bumper.
      • Wired through relay via parking light circuit.
    • A really nifty manual radiator fan control and indicator light; see schematic.

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    Custom Features:

    • Custom built Caddy Shack over the bed.
    • Replaced original windshield gasket with 1-piece black euro-style rubber.
    • Autotech A-pillar fairings.
    • Replaced useless glue-on wing windows with new bolt-through units.
    • Fiberglass front air dam w/ rubber skirt:
      • Really helps keep the front end down on the ground.
      • I backed up the bottom of the dam w/ 1x6 redwood filling the area in between the dam and the front valence. It has hit the ground on a few occasions and has suffered no damage.
      • The bottom of the rubber skirt is covered with 1/2" polyethylene irrigation tubing (slit length-wise) to minimize abrasion.
        • About every 2 years, the tubing will wear through and need to be replaced.
    • SFC flip-up sunroof.
    • Larger side mirrors.
    • Hand-carved shift knob salvaged from my '78 Rabbit.
      • Carved it while working as a fire lookout during the summer of 1978.

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    Future Mods:

    • The original paint (LE6U) is wearing thin and 17 years of accumulated dings need to be fixed.
      • For those of you who lived in the SF Bay Area in the early 80's that remember the nightly Med Fly spraying, you'll get the idea why my paint is shot!
    • According to the original invoice, my pickup came with the factory rear sliding windows, long since replaced for reasons unknown to me.
      • I purchaed a used slider and it is awaiting installation.
    • Replace stock cast iron exhaust header with AutoTech's A1 (4:2:1) header.
      • I ran a 4:1 header for a while but ended up cracking two tubes because the large 4 tube collector at the bottom kept hitting one of the steering rack mounts.
      • The AutoTech header has a lower height at the bottom (only 2 tubes side-by-side) and also has flex section in the down tubes similar to the stock unit.)
    • Extend the fresh air pickup tube to the right headlight for increased air flow.
      • Should help out at the higher 65-70 MPH speed limits.
    • Have the injector pump timing tweaked for a little extra power.
      • I have the tools and dial indicator ready to go.
    • Overhaul or replace the fuse/relay panel to correct intermittent electrical glitches from the leaky windshield gasket.
    • Finish my digital tachometer installation.
      
    • I would like to experiment with LPG fumigation
      • Kind of like nitrous for diesels.

    

    Tales from the Trails

    

    One of the things I like about my pickup is that it makes a great rig for extended road trips:

    • Getting around 40 MPG, it's economical.
      • 14 gallon fuel tank gives it excellent range.
    • Being a pickup, it makes gravel and dirt road travel possible.
    • It can carry enough camping gear and supplies for a few weeks.
    • Room enough for one person to sleep in the back, with that gear.

    I've taken it on a few interesting trips over the years:

    • July 1992:
      • Bay Area (CA). to northern Idaho and my cousin's wedding.
        • My ailing head gasket decided to go on the way there.
        • Spent a day in Lewiston, ID. helping a mechanic drop a new head and gasket on.
      • Then, new head and all, headed (no pun intended) off to British Columbia and Hyder Alaska:
        • Hyder is the southernmost part of Alaska that you can drive to, just west of Stewart, BC.
        • Hyder must have the cheapest fuel in North America, think I paid US $0.75 per gallon for diesel!
        • It is US territory, but only deals in Canadian $, and (I think) pays no taxes to either country from what I can tell.
      • On to the Cassiar Highway
        • 450 miles of dirt and gravel w/ *one* gas station.
        • I made it w/o stopping in one l-o-n-g day, gotta love that midnight sun.
      • Entered the Alaskan Highway at Watson Lake, Yukon Territory.
        • Milepost 446.
        • 1992 was the 50th anniversary of the opening of the highway.
      • Drove south/east to Dawson Creek (milepost 0) for a family reunion in Hythe.
      • Then south to Jasper and Banff National Parks.
        • Via the Forest Service road south of Grand Prairie.
        • 200 more miles of gravel.
      • And finally back to the Bay Area, about 7000 miles.
      • I'd highly recommend getting the latest issue of the Alaska Milepost.
    • July 1994:
      • Left Bay Area, passed through Nevada and Utah to Colorado Springs, CO.; to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison monument (the drive into (and out of) the canyon is wild, 1st gear down and up - 8000' elevation and *steep* grades); on through Crested Butte, CO. over the pass (dirt/gravel roads, ~10,000 ft.) to Glenwood, CO. and into Rocky Mountain NP (at 12,000 ft. elevation, engine has no power to get started, I had to park facing downhill so I could get a rolling start!); then through Denver, CO; Colorado Monument (highly recommended); on to Arches NP and Canyonlands NP; then flew through Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, and Zion parks on my way to Death Valley for a warm night (88°F at midnight); and finally home via Highway 120 through Yosemite NP.
    • August 1994:
      • Santa Clara, CA to Great Basin NP in Nevada on Highway 50 (the loneliest highway in the world); to Fossil Butte monument where I was treated to a wonderful display of thunder and lightning; through Teton and Yellowstone parks; and on to Devil's Tower monument in Wyoming (where the devil got me; my left outer CV joint locked up. Luckily I was a few miles from a NAPA shop and the owner had a parted out Rabbit which donated a front axle); on to Pipestone monument in Minnesota and on to my grandad's house outside Lengby, MN.for his 80th birthday party. The return trip went by way of Sturgis and Deadwood, SD just in time for the big Sturgis Harley rally (not only did I have twice as many wheels as the rest of the folks there, but about 1/2 the horses!); then a straight shot down I-80 back home.
    • May 1995:
      • Santa Clara, CA. to Eureka Sand Dunes (recently added to Death Vally NP); then over the Last Chance Mtns. to Crankshaft Junction and Death Valley proper; down the West Side Road, the mercury topped out at +46°C; back through Badwater; then up to past the Charcoal ovens to Mahogany Flat (the 4x4 road at 8300 feet nearly stopped me, but not quite!) to climb Telescope Peak. Continuing on to Darwin Falls for a refreshing dip, for the long drive up 395 to Reno, NV; past Pyramid Lake the dreaded "Pavement Ends" sign appears; the road condition deteriorates until just a muddy pair of ruts remain through a deserted homestead; finally improving before reaching pavement again. In the far northeastern corner of California and on into the NW corner of Nevada and southern edge of Oregon is some remote country with narrow paved turning to gravel turning to rough dirt roads respectively (by state). After several weeks of rain, the dirt track was now a genuine mud bog. Confronted with hundred yard stretches of goo (and not wanting to dig myself out) I would crank it up to ~50MPH and skim over the wet stuff like those mud boggers you see on TV.
        • BTW: This was to be the final trip on my tires, they were quite bald at this time.
        • They were Semperit 155R13s and they had to be the slipperiest tires I've ever driven, boy did they squeal around corners!
      • I continued on up through central Oregon and an incredible cloud burst that did a good job of cleaning off the accumulated mud, into central Washington to Lake Chelan to celebrate my parent's 40th wedding anniversary. Returned home via I-5 with a stop at Crater Lake, where the mercury hit -4°C in the morning (for the trip, a 50°C variation).

    

    

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    Last updated: 09.JUL.1999